West Papua, Indonesia: The islands you’ve probably never heard of

IT’S home to some of the world’s most pristine islands, but the Halmahera Sea also has historical significance that forever changed science. WHEN a dive master grabs a diver by the shoulder, coming centimetres from his face to sputter a reprimanding column of bubbles from his regulator, it’s either because something extremely good, or pretty dangerous, is about to happen. In our case, it’s the second option: the diver is almost out of air at the bottom of the sea near Arborek village, in the Raja Ampat Marine Reserve of West…

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